MILAN, Italy — 2018 is an important year for Etro. The label was founded in 1968, which makes it 50 years old. Celebration plans are under way but yet to be revealed. Veronica Etro, who serves as creative director of the house's womenswear, delivered a very Etro collection that felt like an nth iteration of the codes that have defined the house over the last five decades: prints, prints and more prints, and a certain idea of glamorous bohemia that is tightly linked to the spirit of 1968.
Backstage she introduced the collection as “Folk Deco,” talking about a merging of the straight modernist lines of art deco and Etro's trademark love for folksy, crafty things. The idea was good, but turned out to be little more than that.
Despite prints being larger and a zing more angular than usual, the collection looked a lot like familiar Etro: eclectic and bohemian, with printed dresses, faultless coats and mannish tailoring taking the lead. It made for a coherent collection but left no room for surprises. In a way, it was a missed opportunity. It would be interesting to see Etro test new grounds, without loosing its integrity. At 50, it is time.