PARIS, France — "My collections always start with colours and evolve like a journey," said Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski after the Hermès show today. "Sensuality, on the other end, is always intentional, not accidental," she added. The succint explanation perfectly sums up Vanhee-Cybulski's latest effort, her best since the instalment in the role of creative director of the venerable French powerhouse.
Sensuality is the keyword here: while previous efforts felt a little cold and a tad dry, this one had a charming and carnal, if subtle, flow to it. That involved her selection of colors — faded hues with a tactile intensity that progressed from violet to black and then exploded in bright accents — as well as her lines.
The nipped waists had an effortless ease that created a feminine silhouette without the goings getting too constrictive. Ajour details and Hermès' very own array of superb leathers and fabrics made the collection all even more sensual. Classicism and timelessness were still very much present — this is Hermès after all — but there was a new vibe going on. Vanhee-Cybulski will go a long way with her soft precision. There is a warmth and kindness to her work that is deeply charming.