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Differentiation and Flocking at the Milan Shows

Fashion's interplay between individualism and conformity was on show at Emporio Armani, Etro and MSGM.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2017 | Source: Indigital
By
  • Angelo Flaccavento

MILAN, Italy — The subject of identity is crucial in our age of both digital homogenisation and the resurgence of ancient fears. Fashion plays on the edge: on one side it ignites fearless and fierce style-individualism; on the other it promotes conformism. Ever the pragmatist, Giorgio Armani, for his Emporio Armani collection, simply explored his very own identity as a designer, hopefully also offering customers clothes simple enough to be adapted to their own identities. It's the usual Armani formula, in the usual Emporio urban/metropolitan mold, but it is always effective.

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Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2017 | Source: Indigital

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The designer is at his best when he goes fuss-free and concept-free, and the collection worked exactly for this reason. The giant fingerprint motif was maybe a tad too literal, and the odd touches of decoration — embroidered patches, a smattering of feathers — not very necessary, but, for the rest, the succession of soft, simple pieces had charm. It was a testament to the work of a designer whose aim, in his own words, is to produce things that "do not embarrass."

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Etro Spring/Summer 2017 | Source: Indigital

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Blue is the probably the most classic amongst the classic colours for menswear. But, also — according to Kean Etro who dedicated the whole Etro collection to nuances of blue — the most poetic and liquid. Philosophical dissertations aside, there is something enduringly timeless and reassuring about blue: real men cannot really get enough of it. Apropos, Etro cast various friends of the brand of many different ages, together with professional models, for the show, and christened the operation "zero kilometer casting." It made for a fun outing: the palpable embarrassment of many of the real life models gave a human warmth to the proceedings, which is another Etro signature. As for the clothes, it was the usual mix of soft tailoring and bohemian/ethnic nods, which made for a consistent line-up.

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MSGM Spring/Summer 2017 | Source: Indigital

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At MSGM, herald of all things pop Massimo Giorgetti went clubbing, and came back with a visually bold collection of loud, oversized shapes in graphic colour combinations. What is fascinating about this designer is the ingenuity and enthusiasm he puts in his work, and also the openness with which he confesses to being a sponge to whatever happens around. From Raf to Gosha, it was easy to detect nods and winks to this and that — the high-waisted jeans, the peeling layers, the snap-hooks and the mega shirts — yet it did not have the air of a replica. Giorgetti is one of those designers who functions as a blender. His originality is in the mix and the mash up, not in the pieces per se. Another plus: his language is spontaneous and immediate, and that draws the audience in. For the rest, it's just clothes.

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