NEW YORK, United States — Self Portrait’s Han Chong briskly made a name for himself with well-priced lace dresses modernised by laser cutting and flirty, easy-to-wear silhouettes. But the success of the London-based designer’s spaghetti strap “Azalea” style puts him at risk of becoming a one-hit wonder. In order to move forward this season, he introduced more tailoring to the mix, including slim-fitting high-waist trousers and shorts trimmed in scalloped lace.
But other than a poplin cotton shirt that twisted at the back, the results were cloying. Too frilly, too overwrought. In the end, the standout look was a fresh interpretation of the old thing: a pink, geometric guipure lace number with an asymmetrical neckline. Chong needs to think about the rest of the collection the way he thought about that dress.