default-output-block.skip-main
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

Nuance and Ambiguity at Berluti

Haider Ackermann brought more of himself to his sophomore collection for the house, subtly infusing Berluti’s essence with drama and his signature loucheness.
Berluti Spring/Summer 2018 | Source: InDigital.tv
By
  • Tim Blanks

PARIS, France — Post-election France has become a bastion of optimism. The mood is infectious. Haider Ackermann's translation was that he wanted his second collection for Berluti to be "smooth, gentle, effortless." And, he added, in deference to the label's place at the pinnacle of luxury menswear, "Very precious".

He’s long been attuned to preciousness in his own career, where it feeds the drama and the decadence that draw him. Ackermann is understandably keen to make a clear division between that and his new job. “I’m at the service of the house of Berluti,” he insisted, “All the patina, all the codes are still here.” Like the subtle luxe of the skins, and the classic straightforwardness of blazers and bombers. “But the house is supporting me so much, I feel more free,” Ackermann added. “I can just go my way and try it.”

For his sophomore outing at Berluti, he'd definitely brought more of himself. This new collection was infused with a hint of his signature loucheness: the slouch of the trousers, the sheen of silk and satin, the physicality of the styling, quietly erotic in its own muted way. The mood was enhanced by a typically dramatic soundtrack from his longtime collaborator Senjan Jansen, plus the presence of Stella Tennant, Liya Kebede and Mica Arganaraz on the runway.

“It’s always interesting to have women around,” Ackermann said. “I like the intimacy of borrowing." You imagine he’d find that ambiguity appealing too. It's one more way he’s subtly nuancing Berluti’s essence.

© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Fashion Week
Independent show reviews from fashion’s top critics.

From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.





view more

Subscribe to the BoF Daily Digest

The essential daily round-up of fashion news, analysis, and breaking news alerts.

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
BoF Professional - How to Turn Data Into Meaningful Customer Connections
© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy, Cookie Policy and Accessibility Statement.
BoF Professional - How to Turn Data Into Meaningful Customer Connections