LONDON, United Kingdom — Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos staged their show in their studio in North London, right by Regents Canal, on a lovely, lazy Sunday afternoon. The rather non-fashion-y surroundings and the intimacy of their workplace brought a light and familiar mood to the proceedings.
The collection was all uplifting and energetic: working around a tropical baroque theme, the designers managed to merge freedom of spirit, a fresh take on sensuality and their trademark, formal exploration of the structure of a dress. While sometimes, the duo's proclivity for a hypervisual approach — think prints, patterns and patches aplenty — feels a little bit too studied, this season the goings were more spontaneous and weightless; the simplicity of the flounced and cinched forms got a boost from bright hues, metallic shots and a genial air of summery carelessness.
The layering of dresses over jacquard tops might not make it into real life, and the patch-covered denim pieces might have felt too referential of the Eighties, but overall the effort proved mature and convincing.