The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — Philip Lim knows how to set the scene: his Spring/Summer 2017 show set was littered with chrysanthemum stalks and dry earth, both indicators of the season's mood: "the soul of late 50's Nashville... Crooning over a Victorian romanticism", he called it. That improbable combination was whipped up into clothes with an innate prettiness - all ruffled and flower-strewn themselves - undercut by more sinister Western-inspired details that ran from tiny cabochon stud embroidery and zipped-off hemlines to a wanton way with blasted denim.
Paired with cut-away python mules and chunky clogs, these looks worked best when Lim let go of his more uptight, tailored inclinations - allowing ideas like shirred aviation bombers and laddered, scalloped-edge shirting pieces to push his historical inspirations in a more modern direction.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.