PARIS, France — In a season of total aesthetic chaos, classicism and proper elegance come across as a radical stance, and all the better for it. There was something reassuring in the gentle strictness of the Rochas show today. Alessandro Dell'Acqua did away with overt embellishment and forced eccentricity to focus on what he does best: dressmaking.
Inspired by the classic but very different styles of two real madames — Marella Agnelli and Helene Rochas — Dell'acqua delivered a collection made essentially of demure dresses and faultless coats. The painterly palette was particularly outstanding, as was his firm will to keep the tone of voice a whisper rather than the shout. It looked just a little vintage-y, and not really groundbreaking, but it was delicious.