NEW YORK, United States — And then there was one. Marcus Wainright, now sole Rag & Boner in the wake of David Neville’s departure, said that the design end was always his bit anyway, so, however difficult the split may have been, there was at least some guarantee of continuity.
Wainwright consolidated it with a soundtrack “composed, arranged and performed” by longtime collaborator Thom Yorke, which made much use of Stephen Hawking’s spoken word. That, accompanied by a film of sine waves which rippled around the wall of the sepulchral showspace and press notes written in numerical code, loaned an obfuscatory edge to Wainright’s first solo flight.
Probably a good idea in those circumstances to fall back on Rag&Bone essentials: utility, military, vintage, English public school, classic youth cult. Though something had been made of the men’s and women’s collections being shown together, Wainwright insisted it wasn’t such a big deal. That was the way they used to do things. And, on the catwalk, it enforced the idea of Rag&Bone as an urban uniform. Where the brand started and where Wainwright has sensibly decided it’s best to stay.