PARIS, France — This morning, in the gilded splendors of the salons of the Hotel de Ville, models took the final walk on the Issey Miyake catwalk smiling. It is not an usual sight: boredom and a cold stare of contempt is what the audience is usually given. It was a precise request of designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae, and it landed a delicate aura to the whole. Which, speaking of clothes, was a charming affair of dancing shapes and aurora borealis colours, of pleats and elementary forms that swing and swarm around the body. Over the past few seasons, Miyamae has found his own key to the Miyake ethos: playful and feminine, with a stress on volume. It is working. Diminishing the cuteness a bit more would push things further forward, if Miyamae keeps the smiles.
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