The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — So far, Marcelo Burlon, the polymath behind the County of Milan phenomenon, has not exactly been taken seriously as a designer. After all, he did not train as one. His fashionable path started with a bunch of t-shirts and soon evolved into reconfigured urbanwear. Well, consider this to be the past.
Heralded by the rather menacing slogan "New Renaissance after a Cultural Armageddon" (splashed as print here and there) the new County of Milan collection marked a turning point, with a decisive switch towards fashion. Silhouettes were layered and sculptural, with functional details adding a pragmatic yet abstract twist to seriously oversized volumes. The press notes announced a posse of post apocalyptic gauchos. And a posse it was: sombrely elegant but not at all apocalyptic. There was probably too much of Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto in the air, and the show would have benefited from a vigorous editing, but it was a convincing move towards bright new territories.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.