PARIS, France—Alessandro Dell'Acqua has a clear idea of what Rochas should stand for. Couture — in terms of grandiose imagery — is certainly a defining trait. So is a certain lightness and freshness, translated into an air of innocent femininity. This stance has generated an unmistakable repertoire of shapes and fabrics: huge taffetas gowns with even bigger tiers; floaty georgette dresses; silk ladylike blouses and brocade skirts; gracious duchesse coats.
On the catwalk, everything was on display, yet somehow today's manifestation was possibly lighter and, according to Dell'Acqua himself, more sensual. What truly caught the eye was the pervading chinoiserie of the whole endeavour, which came across as charming. The aforementioned coats were cut in glittery brocades and eventually worn inside out; the tiered dresses, instead, ended up, like tunics, over slim trousers, while the floaty gowns had cut-outs on the back to flesh some skin — hence the sensuality. Elsewhere, flaps got really sculptural. This was an assured outing for Dell'Acqua which came with a new sense of breezy elegance.