PARIS, France — This season saw designer's responses to the shifting global political climate dominate the runways. From pussy powered protests to protectionism and paeans to multiculturalism, fashion is finding its voice in a brave — and scary — new world. BoF brings you the Top 10 shows of the Autumn/Winter 2017 season.
1. Balenciaga — designed by Demna Gvasalia, PFW
There will probably always be those who attribute cynicism to Demna Gvasalia’s appropriations, but what was consolidated in this collection was a persuasive passion for what he does.
With this debut collection, Raf Simons pulled off a dazzling balancing act that synthesised flesh and spirit for a new age — with an outsider sensibility.
3. Prada — designed by Miuccia Prada, MFW
Miuccia Prada has gone back to the well where her label was once at its strongest: surreal, sexy, serious and, for all her uncertainty, utterly alluring.
4. Marc Jacobs – designed by Marc Jacobs, NYFW
It was a genuine fashion moment, part celebration, part elegy. Marc Jacobs stands alone in New York in providing that depth of frisson.
There were a million bits and pieces in the Gucci show, some extremely beautiful, some ludicrous, and some a startling, provocative marriage of both.
6. Dries Van Noten — designed by Dries Van Noten, PFW
Dries Van Noten’s 100th show distilled the style that won him hearts and minds decades ago.
Sarah Burton's masterful embroideries have never felt quite so in tune with the soul of the collection — one of the most unforgettable of the season.
8. Erdem — designed by Erdem Moralıoğlu, LFW
Erdem did a wonderful job of communicating the unknowability at the heart of the collection. Even the colour palette was mysterious, with strange, saturated violets and mustards dominating.
9. Undercover – designed by Jun Takahashi, PFW
Jun Takahashi is a cultural archeologist almost without equal. His latest Undercover collection was sublime.
Although the collection missed the antic charm of the men’s presentation in January, there was more than enough here to take to market.