LONDON, United Kingdom — From major 'see now, buy now’ shows in New York and London to designer debuts at four major Parisian houses, it was a headline-grabbing season dominated once again by Demna Gvasalia's meteoric ascent. BoF brings you the Top 10 shows of the Spring/Summer 2017.
1. Balenciaga – designed by Demna Gvasalia, PFW
Demna Gvasalia's second women's collection for Balenciaga explored the parallels between couture and fetishism — to dazzling effect.
2. Rick Owens – designed by Rick Owens, PFW
Innocence and experience: those are the poles around which Owens’ work has often rotated, but there was a new purity in the vision he offered this season.
Jonathan Anderson’s collections are an endlessly fascinating distillation of his ideas about clothes: how to wear them, what they mean and when they mean it.
4. Marc Jacobs – designed by Marc Jacobs, NYFW
One thing that is enduringly wonderful about Marc Jacobs is the way he spins his own youthful obsessions into such convincing, contemporary fashion fantasias.
5. Fendi – designed by Karl Lagerfeld, MFW
The Trevi fountain show revved Fendi: collaborators Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld were both feeling a zesty new take on the house.
6. Undercover – designed by Jun Takahashi, PFW
Takahashi has always been a fiercely ingenious designer, here his ingenuity was subtle and seductive; ludicrously, defiantly cool.
7. Thom Browne – designed by Thom Browne, NYFW
The show that Thom Browne staged this season in New York may have been one of the most extraordinary from a designer who has made a career of plumbing the heights — and depths — of fashion spectacle.
8. Sacai – designed by Chitose Abe, PFW
Chitose Abe has established an aesthetic that combines romance and hard edges, intelligence and eroticism in a way so unique and ingenious that it constitutes one of the most distinctive design signatures in contemporary fashion.
9. Roksanda – designed by Roksanda Ilincic, LFW
What's remarkable about RoksandaIlincic is the way she works with colour: an idiosyncratic, artistic sensibility allows her to mix lustrous, plump hues with poignant delicacy.
If it wasn’t exactly the Seven Ages of Versace we were watching, every hard-won shard of Donatella’s self-confidence was out there on the runway.