The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — With fashion's merry-go-round spinning back to the 1990's and a pretty, athletic kind of sexiness, it was a surprise to see veteran Vera Wang's dark riposte of a collection stride out this morning across a catwalk that repeated 'READBETWEENTHELINES' in an ominous ribbon of text.
Rather than banking on the more ladylike elements of her aesthetic (she's a bridal specialist, after all) Wang repeated the stark monochromes that marked last season's sober affair and ran with a severe, deconstructed study of the 'bar' peplum jacket and the bomber.
A multitude of intricate constructions appeared with trailing crepe sleeves and ballooning shoulders, an effect mirrored in sweatshirts layered over lace shifts or trailing sheer crèpe maxi-dresses. A play of transparency and skin lent the latter a certain racy appeal, an effect sadly missing in the clumsy appliqué of giant pearls that weighed down tank dresses and sheer column skirts.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.