MILAN, Italy — Maximalism and hyper-decoration are all the rage in Milan this season. Mash-up, pile-up, the weirder the better. Not for everyone though. The posse of offbeat purists is small but powerful. Damir Doma is among them. Since he decamped from Paris to Milan a little less than one year ago, Doma has found a new voice: emotional and soulful, but with a tougher, raw energy.
The collection he presented on Sunday — in a vast gallery to a ravenous soundtrack that washed over a wonderful collection of street-cast models walking over an arrangement of worn-out carpets — was one of his best. You could see his love for deconstructed tailoring merge with his quest for an androgynous, poetic kind of femininity to form a cohesive message with beautiful clothes to match. The thick jumpers layered over satin slip dresses were particularly noteworthy, and so to the voluptuous, voluminous coats. Minimalism has never been so vibrant and so warm.