The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United State s— "A quiet celebration" Victoria Beckham called the show that launched her 10th anniversary year. The presentation at an uptown mansion was intimate. She wanted it that way so everyone could see the details. But the initial impression wasn't so much detail, but more the broad-strikes rigour of emphatically-shouldered, tightly belted pieces cut from boiled felt. Figure in the felt sacks thrown over the models' shoulders, and a couple of capes, and there was something military about the effect.
That’s a measure of how far Beckham has come in her decade in business. In a nutshell, killer heels to flattest flats. It’s her own quiet feminist manifesto. (With the upcoming Spice Girls get-together, she’ll surely be leaving the sounding off about girl-power-grown-up to the quintet’s mouthier members.) But utilitarian sobriety is a tougher sell than the dresses that made Beckham’s rep, and she acknowledged the need for a little compromise by showing sinuous knit dresses with sunray pleating, and a leopard coat in a chenille jacquard she found in an upholstery shop in Venice. The plushness was welcome.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.