Skip to main content
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

West Coast Rykiel

Despite ticking boxes when it came to house codes, the collection trailed out as an over-decorated bohemian wardrobe with unlikely styling combinations.
Sonia Rykiel Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: InDigital.tv
By
  • Dan Thawley

PARIS, France — Julie de Libran spent her formative years in California, a fact that has rarely encroached on her design language at Sonia Rykiel until this season, when she settled upon the work of Parisian artist Nikki de Saint Phalle to inspire prints, proportions, and crafty embellishments.

De Saint Phalle was half American, and her work was striped, spotted and wildly colourful just like Sonia’s, so on paper, this could have spelled a match made in heaven. The results told otherwise; De Libran’s collection, despite ticking boxes when it came to house codes, trailed out as an over-decorated bohemian wardrobe tacked with feathers, rhinestones and naïve embroideries that skewed bulky whilst proposing unlikely styling combinations.

Pyjama silk and sequinned twin sets layered beneath fur coats and giant evening puffer jackets were part of the problem. Ultimately, the Rykiel woman is Rive Gauche not West Coast, and she'll likely stick to the tailored officer's coats or perhaps one of those cosy peplum knits.

© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Fashion Week
Independent show reviews from fashion’s top critics.

What I Learned From Fashion Month

From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.


view more

Subscribe to the BoF Daily Digest

The essential daily round-up of fashion news, analysis, and breaking news alerts.

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
BoF Professional - How to Turn Data Into Meaningful Customer Connections
© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy, Cookie Policy and Accessibility Statement.
BoF Professional - How to Turn Data Into Meaningful Customer Connections