The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — Julie de Libran spent her formative years in California, a fact that has rarely encroached on her design language at Sonia Rykiel until this season, when she settled upon the work of Parisian artist Nikki de Saint Phalle to inspire prints, proportions, and crafty embellishments.
De Saint Phalle was half American, and her work was striped, spotted and wildly colourful just like Sonia’s, so on paper, this could have spelled a match made in heaven. The results told otherwise; De Libran’s collection, despite ticking boxes when it came to house codes, trailed out as an over-decorated bohemian wardrobe tacked with feathers, rhinestones and naïve embroideries that skewed bulky whilst proposing unlikely styling combinations.
Pyjama silk and sequinned twin sets layered beneath fur coats and giant evening puffer jackets were part of the problem. Ultimately, the Rykiel woman is Rive Gauche not West Coast, and she'll likely stick to the tailored officer's coats or perhaps one of those cosy peplum knits.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.