The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — Ralph Lauren Corp. is considering revamping its operating structure as it looks to avoid the fate of several retail rivals who've been unable to weather the unprecedented season for apparel.
The company, which on Tuesday reported an adjusted loss per share for the first quarter that was worse than the average analyst estimate, said it’s evaluating its “long-term operating structure to align with our evolving strategic priorities,” with a focus on six main areas, including how it organises its teams, its corporate office real estate footprint, where it sells its products and its overall portfolio of brands.
The review is aimed at setting up strategies for the next several years as the business emerges from the health crisis, Chief Executive Patrice Louvet said in an interview.
“We’re making sure that we’re set up to win, in this new context, in the next three to five years. There’s an opportunity to reset in this environment, as we look at new consumer behaviours and the retail landscape,” he said. “We expect to share the outcome of this work and decisions over the next few months.”
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The in-progress overhaul underscores the significant steps retail brands must take as the coronavirus pandemic exacerbates an already-challenging consumer environment. Discretionary purchases, including clothing, have been hurt by widespread economic lockdowns, forcing more than two dozen retailers into bankruptcy this year alone.
Investors were unhappy with the results. Shares fell as much as 6.8 percent in pre-market trading in New York.
In terms of store footprint, the review is looking at the worldwide network, Louvet said. Ralph Lauren expects to open as many as 90 stores in 2020, with the vast majority in Asia, less than a dozen in Europe and only few in the US.
“The review will lead to some choices on areas we want to exit and areas that we want to open,” he said.
The company in the first quarter already took measures to cut costs, including cuts to executive pay and employee furloughs. Negotiated rent abatements and lower expenses due Covid-19 closures also helped shore up cash.
Ralph Lauren reported a loss of $1.82 a share in the quarter, worse than the $1.73 loss anticipated by analysts. Comparable-store sales plunged 57 percent, also trailing estimates.
North America revenue saw the biggest dropoff, plunging 77 percent to $165 million. Europe revenue decreased 67 percent and Asia fell 34 percent. All three markets saw an uptick in digital sales.
By Kim Bhasin and Nic Querolo.
The group’s flagship Prada brand grew more slowly but remained resilient in the face of a sector-wide slowdown, with retail sales up 7 percent.
The guidance was issued as the French group released first-quarter sales that confirmed forecasts for a slowdown. Weak demand in China and poor performance at flagship Gucci are weighing on the group.
Consumers face less, not more, choice if handbag brands can't scale up to compete with LVMH, argues Andrea Felsted.
As the French luxury group attempts to get back on track, investors, former insiders and industry observers say the group needs a far more drastic overhaul than it has planned, reports Bloomberg.