Menswear - Autumn 2019
21 January 2019 • By Angelo Flaccavento
Loewe
21 January 2019 • By Tim Blanks
While his first men's fashion show for Loewe may have lost the humour and charm of his showroom presentations, Jonathan Anderson insisted it was good discipline.
Thom Browne
The designer's ingenuity was spectacular, but curiously chilly.
Sacai
It wasn’t an epic collection, but the fascination of Sacai endures in its trend-proof oddity and in the secret surprises that are insinuated into its menswear.
Undercover
There’s no denying the power of Jun Takahashi’s vision — as apocalyptic and alluring as his original inspiration for this collection, A Clockwork Orange.
Comme des Garcons Homme Plus
Buried in the murk were artfully doubled jackets, skillful new proportions and intriguing decorative elements. But is creativity enough in the darkness? Maybe not.
Celine
20 January 2019 • By Angelo Flaccavento
Hedi Slimane is up to his old tricks. His first menswear collection for Celine was desirable, but inventive it was not.
Junya Watanabe
20 January 2019 • By Tim Blanks
Nothing reverberated with the shock of the new but the notion of creative circularity wouldn’t go amiss.
Hermès
New were the metallic linings and the graphic motifs. The rest was pure Hermès.
Balmain
19 January 2019 • By Angelo Flaccavento
Olivier Rousteing turned down the glitz for a largely monochromatic collection that was coherent, authentic and raised a comment on the hate that can fester in the digital world.
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