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Anthony Vaccarello Puts Brand on Hold

Belgian-born designer Anthony Vaccarello has put his namesake brand on hold, while he focuses on his new role as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent.
YSL Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello | Source: Courtesy | Photo: Inez and Vinoodh
By
  • Limei Hoang

PARIS, FranceAnthony Vaccarello will not hold a fashion show for his namesake brand during Paris Fashion Week this September in order to concentrate on his new responsibilities at the creative helm of Yves Saint Laurent.

"This adventure has been amazing but I now feel the need to fully focus on this new project,” the designer said in a statement, thanking those who have supported his brand since its launch in 2008.

Vaccarello was appointed creative director at Kering-owned Yves Saint Laurent in April, after spending three years at Versus Versace, where he worked his way up from a consultant to creative director.

Alongside his role at Versus, Belgian-born Vaccarello has overseen his eponymous label since 2008, known for its sexuality-laced collections of slashed and laced-up mini skirts, cleavage-baring suit jackets worn over corsets and shiny black leather outerwear.

The designer's first collection for Yves Saint Laurent is set to be shown in October during Paris Fashion Week. Hedi Slimane, Vaccarello's predecessor, spent four years as creative and image director of Yves Saint Laurent, during which time his grunge-soaked collections of bomber jackets, skinny jeans and minidresses helped drive the business to €974 million in sales revenue last year, up from €707 million in 2014.

During his time at Versus Versace, Vaccarello embraced the "see now, buy now" model. Last September, the brand made its collections available to buy after its runway show — a decision which helped contribute to a 17.5 percent increase in the group’s overall revenue in 2015. Sales at Versus Versace stores also more-than doubled in 2015 compared with the previous year, while wholesale revenue rose by 21.4 percent.

Announcing the appointment back in April, Francesca Bellettini, president and chief executive officer of Yves Saint Laurent, said Vaccarello's aesthetic was a perfect fit for the maison: "Anthony Vaccarello impeccably balances elements of provocative femininity and sharp masculinity in his silhouettes. He is the natural choice to express the essence of Yves Saint Laurent."

A graduate of art and design institution La Cambre in Brussels, Vaccarello also worked at Fendi for two years before setting up his own label.

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