The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — The classic Hollywood scene of a mysterious and glamorous woman leaving an anonymous hotel room inspired Louis Vuitton's ready-to-wear show, moving the house in a more sensual, feminine direction.
A carpeted hotel corridor with a series of numbered doors was recreated inside the Louvre for the Autumn/Winter 2013 show, to the sound of nostalgic piano. Suddenly the doors opened, out of which slinked models in '50s wigs wearing satin dresses resembling slips. A bathrobe made from a man's coat followed a crepe dress made with motifs of an undergarment.
"It was about intimacy, the mystery of what's going on behind the door," said creative director Marc Jacobs. "It's Hollywood mixed with rive gauche."
The Hollywood-factor was certainly there in the roll call of top actresses lining the front row including Jessica Chastain, Madmen's January Jones and Naomi Watts, who's in Paris promoting her new film "The Grandmothers."
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The numerous long fur coats — some of the most luxurious seen this season — also provided a glam-factor. Mink coats dyed in two tones and murky-colored astrakhan were stand outs — as well as crocodile bags lined with sheared mink, lashings of marabou feathers and hand-curled goose feathers.
"All sorts of creatures were lying around in embroidered form," joked Jacobs, who may indeed be responsible for emptying a local zoo.
Menswear touches like a button-less tailored jacket or the pajama print reined in the more overtly feminine lingerie looks, ensuring a nice overall balance.
But the show was also about Kate Moss. The 39-year-old, possibly the most famous model in the world, strutted the catwalk sporting a sheer organza slip, with dense floral embroideries, to rapturous applause.
Jacobs, who conducted interviews backstage in red pajamas, said the show grew from his relationship with Moss.
"I've spent many, many, many nights over many, many years in hotel rooms with Kate, and we've always had a very nice time," Jacobs said. "And I'm sure many wondered what we were doing. I'm sure we showed off a lot (here) what we were doing."
By: Thomas Adamson; Copyright (2013) Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
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