NEW YORK, United States — Two high-profile New York Fashion Week defectors are returning to the fold.
Proeza Schouler and Rodarte, both of which decamped for Paris Couture Week three seasons ago, are back on the New York schedule, The Council of Fashion Designers of America said on Thursday.
NYFW, which kicks off on September 6, will also include international brands Vivienne Westwood, Escada and Longchamp, which join some of the New York’s biggest names, including Marc Jacobs, Tory Burch and Ralph Lauren, as well as up-and-coming talent such as Eckhaus Latta, Area and Matthew Adams Dolan. Opening Ceremony, which last season headed to Disneyland, also returns.
“For them to come back is just natural and it's part of the process of bouncing around,” says Steven Kolb, chief executive of the CFDA. "It demonstrates the fluidity that all cities are experimenting regarding fashion week. Their ability to go internationally is something to celebrate.”
While the homecoming of Proenza Schouler and Rodarte marks a win for the CFDA, which in recent months has considered bold plans to restructure NYFW, a number of high-profile American brands — including Thom Browne and Altuzarra— remain absent from the official schedule.
According to market sources, the sales of Joseph Altuzzara’s namesake business have gone up since the designer left New York Fashion Week — where he has shown since 2009 — for Paris in September 2017. Thom Browne has even expressed that his move to Paris, where he has shown his menswear for past eight years and womenswear since September 2017, is permanent.
More recently, other New York-based designers, including Alexander Wang, Rosie Assoulin and Narciso Rodriguez, broke away from the official New York Fashion Week calendar to align their main collections with the pre-season calendar, when around 80 percent of wholesale budgets are spent, giving garments a longer full-price shelf life.
Yet despite the absence of key designers, Kolb remains optimistic. “Every city has brands that are trying different formats and times and I feel really proud that as a city and as an industry we're embracing that.”