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Week in Review | Au Revoir Ann Demeulemeester, Fashion Archives, Vika Gazinskaya, Stefano Pilati, Nike, Brazil, Paul Smith, Joseph Dirand

BoF editor-in-chief Imran Amed recaps the week in the business of fashion.
Ann Demeulemeester | Photo: Willy Vanderperre
  • Imran Amed

LONDON, United Kingdom — Another week, another high-profile departure from a globally respected fashion brand.

In an elegant, hand-written note sent to buyers, journalists and friends from around the fashion world, Ann Demeulemeester explained that the time had come to separate from the brand she founded. "Ann Demeulemeester is an adult brand now with its own identity and legacy that is able to continue growing with out me," she wrote. "I trust the company and the people that worked hard with me. We prepared this step together and they feel ready to bring the brand further into the future."

Still, amongst industry insiders the questions were "Why?" and "Why now?" eliciting comparisons to the departure of another important Belgian designer, Martin Margiela, from his brand, although Mr Margiela did so more quietly, fading away from the brand a few years after it had been acquired by the Only The Brave group, controlled by Renzo Rosso. Our friend Eugene Rabkin wrote a beautiful tribute to Ms Demeulemeester, which I highly recommend you read. It puts into perspective the contribution she has made to fashion and the unique way in which she did so. We will all miss her and wish her well in her future projects.

In case you missed them, here are some of our top articles from the week gone by:

Op-Ed | Thank You, Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester is proof that if you stick to your guns, even the fickle fashion world will listen, says Eugene Rabkin.

Fashion Archives Can Be a Powerful Asset
Fashion brands, both emerging and established, have been investing significant resources in building and maintaining their archives. BoF investigates.

How Vika Gazinskaya Put Herself on the Fashion Map
In recent seasons, Moscow-based designer Vika Gazinskaya has attracted attention, and orders, from some of the world's most influential stores, including Colette, Net-a-Porter and Fivestory. How did she do it?

BoF Exclusive | How Stefano Pilati Plans to Modernise Zegna
In a global exclusive interview to coincide with the unveiling of a new advertising campaign for Ermenegildo Zegna, a part of the brand's repositioning strategy, Imran Amed sat down with head of design Stefano Pilati to discuss his plans for modernising the venerable Italian menswear label, while embracing its rich heritage in tailoring and fabric development.

Nike's Spirit Machine
Courtesy of our friends at 032c, BoF brings you an exclusive excerpt from Jonathan Olivares' piece on HTM, a three-person design collaboration between Nike chief executive Mark Parker, designer Tinker Hatfield and cultural consultant Hiroshi Fujiwara, conceived "to amplify new innovations, reinterpret existing designs, and explore concepts that take the brand to new places."

After Identity Crisis, Brazilian Fashion Shows Momentum
Following an "identity crisis" that saw designers sitting out the shows, or showing collections lacking in creativity, São Paulo Fashion Week is on the upswing.

Paul Smith Says You Need To Change Hats Every Hour
Rebecca May Johnson spends an afternoon in conversation with Paul Smith, tracing his path from a small time retailer to Britain's most successful fashion designer, who pioneered the concept of classic menswear with a twist.

The Creative Class | Joseph Dirand, Architect
Joseph Dirand likes to live fast and furiously. He is as obsessive about food as he is about music and wouldn't mind being a woman. Along the way, the architect, an admitted control freak, has redefined our expectations of what a successful fashion retail experience should be.

Have a great weekend everybody!

Imran Amed
Founder and Editor-in-Chief

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The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
© 2022 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions and Privacy policy.