LONDON, United Kingdom — It was one of those weeks in fashion where designers seemed to be hopping from brand to brand like singles at a speed-dating night, demonstrating that the fashion industry finds itself in a period of ongoing transition and change as brands work to stay relevant in today's world.
No sooner had Peter Dundas been announced as the new creative director of Roberto Cavalli on Thursday (a bit of well-timed succession planning for Mr Cavalli, who will turn 75 later this year) than Massimo Giorgetti was named as Dundas' successor at Emilio Pucci on Friday morning, signalling that Pucci will take a younger, fresher stance in a bid to free itself from the shackles of its iconic prints and make the brand more relevant to a younger audience.
All of this came on the back of an interesting chat I had with Balmain's Olivier Rousteing, as he and his 'Balmain Army' celebrated the opening of their first store in London, located around the corner from Mount Street in Mayfair. It's easy to dismiss Mr Rousteing as a stereotypical attention-seeking millennial, what with all the selfies and celebrities with which he has become associated. But speaking to him this week, it's clear that he seems to have understood something that the more venerable (and risk-averse) brands at Kering and LVMH are only just beginning to understand.
The next generation of fashion consumers doesn't seem content with being the downstream recipients of conceptual fashion that remains exclusive and distant. Rather, they want upstream access to feel a part of the brand as it happens.
Today's creative directors, therefore, must be more open and inviting, as it is through their vision and lifestyle that brands can really come alive for consumers.
Enjoy our top stories for the week gone by:
BoF Exclusive | Inside Balmain’s Digital Revolution
In our latest ‘Inside Fashion’ interview, BoF’s Imran Amed sits down with Olivier Rousteing and Emmanuel Diemoz to discuss the rise of Balmain and its digital revolution.
The Trouble with Ready-to-Wear
The designer ready-to-wear category faces serious structural problems. Luca Solca, head of luxury goods at Exane BNP Paribas, does the analysis.
The Creative Class | Anaita Shroff Adajania, Fashion Director and Bollywood Stylist
BoF speaks to Anaita Shroff Adajania, the stylist behind the current Vogue India cover featuring Bollywood megastar Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, about her career trajectory and the inner workings of fashion and film in India.
The Whimsy of Anna K
For this month’s Spotlight, sprite-like model-turned-designer Anna Karenina talks to BoF about the quirky, macabre inspirations behind her whimsical womenswear brand.
Op-Ed | Joe Mimran, Dressed in Déjà Vu
Following the news that Joe Mimran is retiring from his role at Joe Fresh, Shinan Govani reflects on the pop culture status of one of Canada’s most successful fashion entrepreneurs.
And don’t forget to check out BoF Weekly, a week in review published with Flipboard and updated every Saturday.
Imran Amed Founder and Editor-in-Chief