LOS ANGELES, United States — Goop is getting into the size-inclusive clothing business.
Gwyneth Paltrow’s lifestyle brand will on Tuesday begin selling a capsule collection made in collaboration with Universal Standard, the size-inclusive clothing company that counts Paltrow as one of its backers. The pieces, including a tuxedo jacket and trousers, a dress, a jumpsuit and a peacoat, span sizes 00 to 40.
The lifestyle empire worth a reported $250 million is well known for its content and product lines around health, wellness and beauty. But apparel is also a significant business for Paltrow, who says the Goop multi-brand fashion arm that launched in 2012 is “a big revenue driver.” While Paltrow debuted her own direct-to-consumer line, G. Label, two years ago, this collection marks the first time the brand has stocked extended sizes (until now, Goop clothing stopped at size 12).
“At Goop, I always say internally something that we try to do is eliminate shame by talking about things, whether it's sexual health or stress or post-natal depression. I want Goop to be a place where women who are feeling marginalised in anyway can come and find content and product,” Paltrow said in an interview. “This is an area where we haven’t been great and I believe inclusivity is really important.”
Universal Standard started in 2015 as a seasonless, direct-to-consumer brand looking to bridge the gap between straight and plus size clothing — categories which are often segregated in retail — by offering elevated basics in a vast spectrum of straight and plus sizes.
Three years on, co-founders Alexandra Waldman, chief creative officer, and Polina Veksler, chief executive, have raised $8.5 million (Paltrow participated in the brand's $7 million Series A round in February) and expanded into size-extended jewellery, activewear, loungewear and workwear.
“Goop has been a real disruptor by allowing women to really look at the whole idea of wellness in a new light, without any boundaries,” Waldman said. “That fits perfectly with what we’re trying to do with clothing.”
The long-neglected plus-size market presents an opportunity for brands and retailers. In 2017 it was worth £6.5 billion ($9.2 billion) in the UK and $23.1 billion in the US, and is growing faster than the apparel business as a whole.
By partnering with Universal Standard, Goop was able to better understand the operational complexities of producing a full size range and how to overcome hurdles when it comes to manufacturing and fit models.
For Universal Standard, the partnership was an opportunity to reach a new audience. “This is really about making [size inclusivity] the new normal through a variety of channels,” said Waldman. “The thing that should determine [your clothing] choices should be your taste and your budget. We don’t need any more barriers than that.”
The Goop tie-up marks Universal Standard’s second brand collaboration. Earlier this year, it partnered with J.Crew to help the retailer expand its sizing range, releasing two special collections and also stocking selected pieces from the main Universal Standard collection on the J.Crew marketplace.
“It’s one thing for us to do it ourselves … But when we’re able to partner with someone else and scream much louder that this change needs to happen, it makes sense to do that for the consumer,” said Veksler.
The Goop x Universal Standard line will launch November 27 at Goop’s permanent stores in Los Angeles and New York, as well as on the Goop e-commerce site.