NEW YORK, United States — Simon Spurr is back. The acclaimed British designer, credited with modernising menswear tailoring, has been appointed as creative director of Italian menswear brand Eidos — a more modern and affordable sub-label of heritage menswear brand Isaia that was launched in 2013. His first Autumn/Winter 2018 collection for the Neapolitan brand will debut in January.
“I think there are many factors involved in my decision-making,” said Spurr. “[But] being part of a bigger parent company structure was key.”
Spurr started his career as a menswear designer for Yves Saint Laurent in 1997, where he worked under Hedi Slimane before joining Calvin Klein and eventually Ralph Lauren as design director of the American house’s Purple and Black labels.
In 2006, Spurr launched his namesake menswear line with a range of denim, which was immediately bought by Bergdorf Goodman. He quickly expanded to sportswear, tailoring and accessories. Spurr was soon heralded as one of New York’s menswear disrupters, alongside Thom Browne, Patrik Ervell and Billy Reid, but that journey ended when Spurr unexpectedly pulled the plug in 2012 after an alleged disagreement with his business partner.
“I had taken some time off and had been exploring some other avenues outside of the fashion realm like art and furniture,” explained Spurr, who after a brief stint at Gieves and Hawkes returned to fashion in January with the launch of a luxury footwear label, March NYC. Now at Eidos, Spurr is ready to woo the ready-to-wear industry once again, whilst continuing his work on March NYC.
"I have been following Simon's career for a number of years, and always enjoyed his use of consistent messages in his storytelling,” Isaia chief executive, Gianluca Isaia, said in a statement. “He understands engagement and how it drives business at all levels.”
Both Isaia and Spurr believe the young brand has an opportunity for substantial growth. Spurr, who will work closely with a team of 20 at Isaia and Eidos’ newly-established New York studio, has been given free reign to reimagine the brand. He said the first collection will “start from scratch,” and has already made the decision to change the brand’s fit models.
“The door is open to how fast and big we want to grow this brand,” said Spurr. “Once we get the aesthetic up and running, we would like to collaborate with members’ clubs, restaurants, galleries and other like-minded brands.”
Currently stocked at over 30 influential global stockists, including Mr. Porter, Nordstrom and Lane Crawford, Eidos is looking to expand its wholesale partners as well as launch its own e-commerce channel. “Hopefully it will tap into that younger demographic that will serve as the customer base platform to grow the brand for the next twenty years,” said Spurr.