The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Hello BoF Professionals, welcome to our latest members-only briefing: The Week Ahead. Think of it as your "cheat sheet" to what everyone will be talking about on Monday.
THE CHEAT SHEET
A Blockbuster Men's Fashion Week in Paris
Hedi Slimane's debut collection for Celine | Source: InDigital
ADVERTISEMENT
Men's fashion week in Paris has no shortage of storylines. It's set to be a victory lap for the fast-growing luxury menswear market as well as Virgil Abloh's Louis Vuitton, only days after Timothée Chalamet's bedazzled harness scored rare points for men's fashion on the Golden Globes red carpet. The week will also play host to Kris Van Assche's first collection for Berluti, Waight Keller's return to standalone displays for Givenchy men's after a shift to co-ed shows in 2017, and Raf Simons' first solo outing since his ouster from Calvin Klein. But the biggest event of the week is sure to be Hedi Slimane's first-ever men's show for Celine, a chance for him to make a statement at the brand that's likely to be (relatively) free of comparisons to Phoebe Philo. Lurking in the background are the "yellow vest" protestors, whose regular Saturday demonstrations have cut sharply into luxury sales and forced Kim Jones' Dior Men, another highlight of the week, to move its show.
The Bottom Line: The rapid growth of luxury menswear has helped to reverse the trend toward co-ed shows. If this week's publicity bomb fuels even hotter sales, expect more major brands to follow in the footsteps of Celine and Givenchy and stage standalone displays.
Paris to Underscore LVMH's Menswear Reboot
Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2019 show | Source: Getty
The End of the Road for Sears?
Source: Getty
The Bottom Line: The pace of retail bankruptcies has slowed, but brands as diverse as Charlotte Russe, J.Crew, J.C. Penney and Neiman Marcus are struggling with middling sales and/or large debt loads.
COMMENT OF THE WEEK
ADVERTISEMENT
Lady Gaga attends the 76th Annual Golden Globe Awards. | Source: Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic
Last week's newsletter sparked some debate on BoF's social media feeds about fashion's approach to awards shows. Among the comments:
"The red carpet as a place to make a political statement is dead. An opportunity wasted both by the hosts as well as the stars. After last year's brouhaha it was back to ... 'oh who are you wearing?' Blah." @psprivateedition
"Can it be just an awards ceremony? Can we keep politics out of this way at least? Can we just celebrate beautiful gowns, dazzling performances and great movies? For once in a year just take a deep breath and relax." @riinaalice
SUNDAY READING
Professional Exclusives You May Have Missed:
The Week Ahead wants to hear from you! Send tips, suggestions, complaints and compliments to brian.baskin@businessoffashion.com.
Was this BoF Professional email forwarded to you? Join BoF Professional to get access to the exclusive insight and analysis that keeps you ahead of the competition. Subscribe to BoF Professional here.
Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholders’ documentation guaranteeing BoF’s complete editorial independence.
Fast-growing start-ups like Hettas, Saysh and Moolah Kicks created sneakers designed specifically for active women. The sportswear giants are watching closely.
The companies agreed to cap credit-card swipe fees in one of the most significant antitrust settlements ever, following a legal fight that spanned almost two decades.
In an era of austerity on Wall Street, apparel businesses are more likely to be valued on their profits rather than sales, which usually means lower payouts for founders and investors. That is, if they can find a buyer in the first place.
The fast fashion giant occupies a shrinking middle ground between Shein and Zara. New CEO Daniel Ervér can lay out the path forward when the company reports quarterly results this week.