The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Hello BoF Professionals, welcome to our latest members-only briefing: The Week Ahead. Think of it as your "cheat sheet" to what everyone will be talking about on Monday.
THE CHEAT SHEET
Showdown in Sunglasses
EssilorLuxottica owns Ray-Ban and licenses for numerous luxury brands | Source: Flickr
If you've bought a pair of glasses recently — whether Ray-Bans, Chanel shades or prescription eyewear — there's a nearly one-in-three chance they were made by EssilorLuxottica. The company, formed from a merger of Luxottica and Essilor completed last year, controls valuable licenses for top luxury brands and operating some 9,000 Sunglass Huts, LensCrafters and other retail locations. The catch: Essilor chief Hubert Sagnieres and Luxottica founder Leonardo Del Vecchio both want to run the combined entity, and neither has the power to bend the other to his will. The deadlock has prevented the company from enjoying hundreds of millions of dollars in promised post-merger savings or addressing slowing growth, and shares have tumbled 20 percent since the deal was completed. After letting the two duke it out for months, some investors have had enough, calling for the election of a slate of independent directors to end the feud. The message appears to have gotten through: Sagnieres and Del Vecchio are reportedly working on a peace deal.
The Bottom Line: EssilorLuxottica's commanding market share shields it from the worst effects of poor governance, but direct-to-consumer start-ups and an LVMH-backed rival are no doubt rooting for the internal battle to rage on.
Fashion Loves an Ambitious Climate Target. Will Action Follow?
Source: Copenhagen Fashion Summit
The Bottom Line: Road maps and charters are a good first step, but the industry is nearing the point where it needs to show progress.
Fashion and Technology Meet in Paris
LVMH's Bernard Arnault at the Viva Technology conference | Source: LVMH
The Bottom Line: E-commerce sales are booming, but fashion has historically been slow to adopt new technology. Fashion's embrace of VivaTech is one indicator that's changing.
Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholders’ documentation guaranteeing BoF’s complete editorial independence.
COMMENT OF THE WEEK
Brandon Maxwell and Lady Gaga at the Met Gala | Source: John Shearer/Getty Images for THR
"Isn't monetisation more important than social media mentions? Yes, exposure is great but will that turn into actual sales?" @royalstylewatch, commenting on "Capitalising on the Met Gala Moment Is Harder Than it Looks."
SUNDAY READING
Professional Exclusives You May Have Missed:
The Week Ahead wants to hear from you! Send tips, suggestions, complaints and compliments to brian.baskin@businessoffashion.com.
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After the SAC’s Higg Index became a central focus for greenwashing allegations, the trade group commissioned an independent review. Its recommendations include scrapping a stand-alone materials assessment and more work to improve the data.
Soaring luxury goods prices have boosted turnover at companies like LVMH and Kering, helping them to report reductions in their ‘emissions intensity’ — the volume of planet-warming gases released relative to revenue.
This week, New York played host to one of the world’s largest climate confabs, but there was little visible presence from fashion’s biggest companies. If the industry doesn’t pull up a seat at the table, it risks getting left behind.
The Chinese company hopes to alleviate its environmental impact through programmes like EvoluShein, which focuses on producing garments out of recycled polyester and reducing waste from unsold clothes.