Kiko Kostadinov

The Japanese sportswear giant has created a new unisex clothing line called Novalis alongside long-time collaborator Kiko Kostadinov. The sub-brand will be stocked at retailers like Dover Street Market.

In the past, the designer has fished hard and fast for effect, and it’s duly come across as contrived. Here, where contrivance was the intention, it all came together in a very curious way.

On the first day of London Fashion Week, emerging labels Kiko Kostadinov, Xu Zhi and Matty Bovan pushed boundaries while embracing newfound commerciality.

An exodus of major fashion houses from the official calendar means the next month of menswear shows will provide an opportunity for lesser-known designers to shine. BoF spotlights the season’s can’t-ignore talents.

What could kayaking, Yves Klein’s love of judo, Barbet Schroeder and Pink Floyd possibly have to do with each other? The resulting collection offered more questions than answers.