Luxury brands used to hold their fast-fashion collaborations at arm’s length, but changing consumer attitudes and new financial incentives are changing the high-low game.

Evan Mock, Harry Styles, Brad Pitt, Jared Leto and many more famous men are banking on the blurring gender binary, or simply the novelty factor, to propel their brands to the top of a crowded market.

Aviator Nation’s pricey sweatpants and cashmeres had a cult following before they were swept up in the “dopamine dressing” phenomenon. Now, founder Paige Mycoskie – still the brand’s only shareholder – is ready to see just how big her vision for California surfer cool can get.

As Mickey Mouse turns 90, he and the rest of his cartoon crew are enjoying a moment as fashion icons. Disney gave BoF a look behind the scenes at how it gets its iconic characters on everything from Gucci sweatshirts to H&M X Moschino T-shirts.