Senior Fabric & Trim R&D Manager - RTW
- Work closely with Designers to define and develop seasonal fabric, leather and trim direction.
- Research and gather all material needs based on direction, pricing all selections before reviewing with design.
- Initiate material development with selected suppliers and communicate specific needs through daily communication both on email, phone and what’s app when needed in order to obtain the best result and most accurate information.
- Manage approvals, check-in and quality control for all sample fabric, leather and trim orders insuring they are correct and approved by design as soon as they arrive.
- Ability to react swiftly and troubleshoot when issues arise, acting with a sense of urgency and diligence to resolve, including last minute additions or substitutions as requested by the designers.
- Request specific materials from suppliers for trials, and prototypes (tailoring yardage, leather skins, etc.)
- Work with cross functioning teams including Handbags, Shoes, Knits and Merchandising to fill any crossover material needs when required.
- Counter source fabrics when needed to hit a price point as requested by SVP or Merch. If a counter source is required, also launching and approving necessary trials and lab dips before bulk.
- Handoff a fully approved and realized sample fabric collection to Production at the end of each season to help insure a smooth transition to production.
- Attend materials exhibitions when needed (Premiere Vision, Lineapelle) to meet with suppliers to source and select materials for the subsequent season, as well as understand the current market and discover potential new suppliers.
Budget and T&A:
- Oversee and manage spending on materials based on seasonal budgets reporting back to SVP regularly.
- Manage Calendar for sample fabric, leather & trim buys.
- Manage Quality Control and establish priorities based on needs of Department and Calendar.
- Negotiate prices, minimums, surcharges, and lead times with suppliers.
- Counter source materials with objective of obtaining better pricing and/ or performance, as needed
- Meet weekly with Managers to review Design/Production T&A status
- Meet frequently with Director of Fabric & Trim Production to talk through articles and information pertaining to them to ensure smooth transition to production.
- Work closely with the Merchandising Team to ensure commercial materials needs are fulfilled (materials meet target prices, are commercially viable, etc.)
- Establish and enforce deadlines for all material-related decisions in conjunction with the season’s calendar.
- Management of workflow with the print designer and print/artwork process etc.
Relationships with Vendors:
- Maintain personal relationships with vendors through phone calls, zoom, travel and on-site appointments regularly. Important to establish rapport directly with mills and not just agents.
- Address potentially problematic materials directly with suppliers prior to bulk production.
Maintenance and Daily Tasks:
- Issue and manage POs for Sampling of fabric, leather (when needed) and Trim.
- Work directly with factories when possible for any sourcing needs for fabric, leather and trim, ensuring they are executing correctly and with clear direction.
- Help create and update physical fabric boards and work with design to keep digital boards updated as well.
- Assign all Material codes with entry into the RLM system along with all FDS/LDS/TDS and prices by quantity brackets for production.
- Manage updates and maintenance of materials information in RLM and work with Development to guide them on linesheet updates regularly as well.
- Manage approval of sample lab dips, strike offs, trials and obtain Designer’s and/ or Management’s approval when needed.
- Maintain complete FDS and Quality Reports library as well as references’ standards
- Maintain Sampling inventory in Atelier and Basement.
- Check & approve all invoices in Concur, also using it as a function to actualize budget.
- Hire interns as needed to help handle admin functions such a fabric check-in, midtown sourcing and other day to day functions.
Please note this is an outline that can be ever changing and evolving of any materials related sampling projects that could come up including special projects, collaboration, capsules, and VIP needs.
- 6+ years of experience in luxury material development and/or production.
- Advanced understanding of material function and fabrications.
- Trim experience is a plus but not required. Basic knowledge of trim needed only.
- Attention to detail and diligence in follow up and follow through is a must.
- Strong communication skills both written and verbal.
- Excellent organizational and problem-solving skills.
- Experience with Excel for tracking budget and material deliveries and allocation.
- Moderate knowledge of Adobe Suite is a plus.
- Interest and experience with sustainability and sustainable materials is a plus.
**Applicant will be required to follow all NYC Vaccination policies