Jacquemus started his own label when he was 19. Credited with bringing a freshness to Paris’ fashion scene, his collections are deconstructed, surrealist and often ‘NSFW’. The designer takes archetypal French concepts like the Breton stripe and spins them on their head, working in the space between commercial and conceptual. His playful approach to pushing the boundaries of French fashion has earned him two nominations for the LVMH Prize.
Beginning his fashion career in Paris’ Commes des Garçons boutique, Jacquemus has often expressed the Japanese brand’s influence on his work. “It encouraged me,” he told The Cut. “Being there for two years made me stronger, in the sense that it helped me know what I really wanted. There’s a radicalism to Rei Kawakubo . It’s a certain form… of not humour, but lightness.” He has since gained support from the likes the founders Adrian Joffe and Rei Kawakubo.
Jacquemus moved to Paris when he was 18 and enrolled in fashion school for a couple of months. After the passing of his mother he launched his label in 2009 under her maiden name, Jacquemus. The up and coming designer now has his own studio off the Place des Vosges in Le Marais.
His collections have a child-like spirit and sense of freedom, often featuring asymmetrical designs, oversized ‘stiff’ silhouettes, experimental make up and shoeless or topless models. Fashion critic Susanna Lau has declared they “seem like an unstuffy bit of fresh air [in the Paris fashion schedule]”.
Jacquemus has a strong social media presence, helped by playful presentation of his images on Instagram. In this vein he published a photography book in tandem with the Spring/Summer 2014 collection - ‘La Grande Motte’ – a reference to the Languedoc-Roussilon’s seaside resort and his experiences there as a child.