Shares jumped 4 percent following a Milan Fashion Week outing which saw Sabato de Sarno hone the brand’s universality and upscale appeal. Critics were left wanting more in ways both good and bad.

BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed speaks to veteran modelling agent Chris Gay to understand the shifting power dynamics in the modelling industry and how models can build a career that stands the test of time.

The late designer’s archive of nearly 20,000 pieces ranging from Madame Grès and Schiaparelli to Comme des Garçons and Gaultier is like a ‘real-life backup disk of 20th century fashion,’ writes Laurence Benaïm.

The designer’s first outing this Friday will be a major test for the Italian megabrand and owner Kering.