The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — At Jil Sander, Rodolfo Paglialunga dialed down the odd diversions of the past few seasons - militarism and fetishism - and went back to the core values of the house: luxurious simplicity and sophisticated function. The collection, which greatly benefited from being concise and tightly edited, was easy, modular and soft, due to the abundance of faded and washed surfaces that gave pieces a sun-bleached allure. Sander's very own civilian take on the idea of the uniform was apparent in the long trenchcoats and functional shirt-jackets, and, overall, in the idea of a modular offering of pliable staples. The effect was, again, a tad repetitive, but the message had appeal: Paglialunga has perfected the idea of the compact, fuss-free wardrobe for self-aware men who find stressing over their look deadly boring.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.