The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
LONDON, United Kingdom — "Uniform without uniformity" is the catchy slogan creative director Johnny Coca used in the press notes to describe his second collection for Mulberry. He played with notions of convention and rebellion, mixing regimental stripes with pinstriped shirting, masculine tailoring with flounced asymmetries, severity with frilly frivolity. Sound familiar? That's because it is.
The collection had more than a whiff of Vetements — the oversize men's shirts and the dowdy dresses verged dangerously on plagiarism — which comes as no surprise given that uber-stylist Lotta Volkova worked on the show. This, of course, poses a lot of questions about the role of stylists in contemporary fashion and the cross-pollination of ideas they bring.
The core of the Mulberry business, however, is bags, and the styles Coca delivered, from satchels to boxy numbers, were a knockout.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.