PARIS, France — One cannot accuse Peter Dundas of not sticking to his own guns. No matter what the taste du moment is, he keeps envisioning his women as stiletto-shod, miniskirt wearing, unabashedly sexy glamourpusses. These women are not even a fantasy, after all, but real denizens of the glittery demimonde Dundas inhabits — the party-circuit, five-star-luxe 'it' girls, you know.

The collection Dundas showed today in the enchanting spaces of the Musée Bourdelle was the fifth since he went solo, and it felt like the nth iteration of the code. The strong shoulders, cropped tops, lace cycling shorts and fringed bikers exuded 1980s panache, with a distinctive Guns 'n Roses feel. In other words, it was pure Dundas.

What it lacked, however, was the jolt of energy — momentum. What’s more, the pieces were not immaculately made. Production is an aspect Dundas must work on — being self-financed this is hard, we know — because it would give the collection the mark of authority.