The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
The prize for emerging designer brands backed by France’s Ministry of Culture and a consortium of luxury brands is set to return this year, after 2020′s endowment was transformed into a crisis fund to support former winners.
The designers selected to compete as finalists for the €500,000 prize will be announced in May. Four final winners will be chosen as a function of their “creative vision and business brand,” ANDAM said in a statement Tuesday.
Guest members of this year’s jury include former Celine creative director Phoebe Philo, who has maintained a low profile since her 2017 departure from the LVMH-owned brand, Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean Raymond and the rapper Lisa, a member of the Korean girl group Blackpink.
Balenciaga chief executive Cédric Charbit will preside and serve as mentor to the Grand Prize winner.
Last year’s prize process was scrapped as the coronavirus pandemic strained emerging brands, and sponsors decided to share the endowment among previous finalists including Marine Serre, Y/Project’s Glen Martens and couturier Mossi Traoré, as well as providing support to the fashion production start-up Tekyn.
Designer Carly Mark sparked conversation about what it takes to make it as an emerging designer in New York when she announced she was shutting her ready-to-wear line and moving to London. On Thursday she held her last sample sale.
To stabilise their businesses brands are honing in on what their particular consumer wants to buy, introducing new categories and starting conversations.
That’s the promise of Zellerfeld, a 3D-printing partner to Louis Vuitton and Moncler that’s becoming a platform for emerging designers to easily make and sell footwear of their own.
With a new heavyweight backer in Italian firm Style Capital — which helped Zimmermann secure a billion dollar valuation — the French contemporary womenswear brand has ambitions to go global. But it sits in a competitive and hard-to-crack category.