The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
The fashion magazine will no longer promote fur in any of its 45 international editions, Elle senior vice president and editorial director Valéria Bessolo Llopiz announced Thursday at The Business of Fashion’s annual VOICES gathering. The decision follows dialogue between Elle owner Lagardère Group, the Humane Society of the United States, Humane Society International and Creatives4Change.
“Today, we think animal fur is no longer in line with our values. It’s time to take a stance on the critical issues of protecting and caring for the environment,” she said on-stage in conversation with BoF’s Imran Amed and PJ Smith, director of fashion policy for the US and international chapters of The Humane Society.
By Jan. 1, 2023, none of the magazine’s 45 international editions will feature fur in their editorials or advertising content. So far, the policy has taken effect in 13 editions, with a further 20 due to eliminate content featuring fur by the start of 2022.
The move comes as fur-free policies are adopted by more and more fashion brands, retailers and publishers, following rising activism on animal cruelty and the environmental impact of rearing animals for their skins. Covid-19 outbreaks across mink farms in European countries like Denmark and the Netherlands have also cast the fur industry in an unflattering light, and resulted in tough crackdowns by national governments.
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A number of high-profile brands, retailers and fashion weeks have banned the material in recent years, with luxury conglomerate Kering among the latest to take action. In September, the group’s chief executive announced that fur would no longer be used across any of its labels, saying fur had “no place in luxury.”
Fashion media has been slower to eliminate fur. Prior to Elle, American magazine InStyle was the only major fashion publication to have instituted a no-fur policy. The recently launched Vogue Scandinavia has been lauded by animal rights group PETA for releasing its first issue without featuring any fur in August.
VOICES 2021 is made possible in part through our partners McKinsey & Company, Shopify, Clearco, Klarna, Brandlive, Flannels, Snap, Getty Images, Soho House and The Invisible Collection.
As brands that once relied on fur as a symbol of luxury back away from it, many are trying to move forward with their brand identity intact.
This week, French luxury conglomerate Kering made a commitment to go entirely fur-free, but the calculus looks different for LVMH, the world’s largest luxury group.
Kering brands like Gucci and Bottega Veneta banned fur years ago, but the French luxury group is extending the policy across all its labels.
France is pressing ahead with a ‘game-changing’ bill that would impose a ‘sin tax’-style penalty on fast-fashion products as high as €10 per item by 2030.
In the weeks since one of the industry’s most promising recycling start-ups filed for bankruptcy, big brands have put more money and more commitment into bringing innovations to market.
Thirty years of providing the world’s finest wool to the fashion house Loro Piana has done almost nothing for the Indigenous people of the Peruvian Andes.
The fast-fashion giant has joined Vargas and TPG to back a new polyester recycling venture following its failed bet on Renewcell.