NEW YORK, United States — Just after Sophie Theallet was Monse, the two-season-old label designed by two veterans of Oscar de la Renta which has found swift success. Not only have red-carpet stylists embraced Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s new approach to eveningwear — rooted in twisting the standard collared shirt into something new and more formal — but buyers are on board as well. (Spring 2016 stockists include Net-a-Porter, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Ikram in Chicago, Bloomingdale’s… the list goes on.)
There was plenty of buzz in the room as striped bias-cut dresses tied just so, double-breasted blazers designed to fall off the shoulder and buoyant bubble skirts bounced down the runway. Their draped velvet gowns had a louche desirability. But the bubble skirts and proportions were clumsy. The last set of looks were the biggest turn off. There is nothing to say about a black-lacquer puff-ball skirt, connected at the front with a crop top, except that it looked a bit like a trash bag (and not in a charming way like Alber Elbaz’s clutch for Lanvin a few seasons back).
The mullet ball-gown skirt had a similar unease. It's refreshing to see an American label doing something so overtly tacky. But that didn't seem to be the Monse designers' intention. They must stay focused on what makes a woman look both beautiful and special — not silly.