The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — Fields of gold. For Ami's Alexandre Mattiussi, nothing says summer like the undulating sheaves of wheat that spread out as far as the eye can see over the hills of his family home in Normandy. His Spring/Summer 2019 show set reconstituted that bucolic vision in spades, and models strode amongst the rustling grasses as if departing on a country walk.
Their provençal safari get-up channeled a comfy, altogether undone vision of weekend wear – think dad's bowling shirt with grandpa's fair isle sweater, roomy schoolboy trousers and perhaps a pair of socks and Velcro sandals.
With Mattiussi’s Parisian boys and girls off-duty and out of town, there was a light, washed quality to the technical pieces here that served him well – waxed parkers and trenches, leggings peeking out beneath tailored shorts, and zipped anorak shapes. This approach to sportswear felt authentically outdoors-y and ever so bourgeois, gracefully distancing the Ami man from the urban onslaught of menswear today.
Even workwear can be couture-ified in the hands of Marc Jacobs, whose off-calendar shows remain primetime draws for the New York fashion industry.
Casey Cadwallader and Pieter Mulier prove that iconic design signatures can be rewritten for a new age.
Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino and Kim Jones at Fendi have very different visions for Rome’s most famous fashion houses
Couture week delivered a dizzying mix of the surreal and clothes actually meant to be worn by clients, writes Angelo Flaccavento.