The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — Concerned with all the figurative 'noise' surrounding the fashion show format and its calendar of late, designer Derek Lam crafted his own eloquent response via a series of salon shows atop the Greenwich Hotel, explaining each look himself as each model entered the penthouse living room.
Although no hint of Georgia O'Keefe's vibrant florals touched Lam's palette nor silhouette, it was the artist's raw feminine spirit that he said inspired this austere collection - one populated with poplin shirt dresses and balloon-sleeve blouses, slouchy pants and long, softly a-line skirts.
Nuancing the demure designs, textures like donut-shaped cotton embroideries, topstitched suede, and broderie anglaise lent an ethnic rub to his otherwise minimalist offer. A golfing check was a graphic clin d'oeil to Katherine Hepburn yet amongst other ideas, it edged closer to Phoebe Philo's recent train of thought at Céline. That fact alone saw Lam's own light shine brighter in the collection's more textured, craftier looks.
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BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.