The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
NEW YORK, United States — Rosie Assoulin is a very maternal person, and that's reflected in the warmth and hospitality of her presentations. She greets every attendee as if she is welcoming them into her home. This season, that approach was a bit more literal. The designer set up Ottoman era-style furniture — along with silver tea carts filled with homemade Syrian cookies — in the center of her show space, turning it into a bonafide parlour.
The idea was for guests to sit down and enjoy the clothes, which were, per usual, a sumptuous mix of materials and ideas that make up in joy for what they lack in focus. Real flowers were hand-pressed into tulle on a sweet two-tiered ball gown. The wood-grain pattern of stiff and stretchy moire further embedded the idea of home into the mix, as did the damask fabric done up into a ruffled gym bag as squishy as a couch pillow.
ThIS season marked Assoulin’s first try at shoes, with wooden heels often carved to resemble the leg of a chair or couch. Even the jewelry had a domestic spin: Assoulin commissioned ceramist Jon Almeda, whom she scouted on Instagram, to make miniature vases that were then fashioned into earrings and pendants.
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Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.