MILAN, Italy — Can a collection be designed by committee? It's an open question. Diego Della Valle recently declared that the era of superstar designers was over. Yet, a product without an author remains, well, just a product: lifeless and anonymous. It was apparent at the Salvatore Ferragamo show yesterday. The brand has been doing without a creative director since Massimiliano Giornetti's departure earlier in the spring. His team remained in place. But the resulting collection was lost in a middle ground between the past and the future.

The remains of Giornetti's thoughtful precision informed the strong line up of tailored safari jackets and demure blousons accessorised with sneakers and sneakers/sandals. But the effort lacked a twist, even a faint one: the touch of personality Giorgetti managed so subtly to infuse. That said, the collection will easily translate from catwalk to store, with no adjustment necessary. It was ok, but just so. As for quirk and true desirability, Ferragamo needs a creative director soon.