The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — The Julien David collections are usually quite playful. Definitely odd, yet playful. Not this season. At least, not blatantly. Mr David was in a somber mood, give or take the round lace collars that topped a quite a few outfits — for him and for her — as this was a mixed show. Urged backstage, David explained that the season's theme was a merging of hiking, military and boy scout. Where do these elements collide? The functionality of the uniform, and also its sombreness. Apropos, the collection was functional — multiple pockets everywhere, boots, olive drab — sombre and decidedly repetitive. A stricter edit would have helped. A bit more playfulness, too. There were jolly patches here and there, but that was not enough.
Tim Blanks and Imran Amed discuss the highlights of the Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, including Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry, a transitional show at Gucci and Balenciaga’s first brand statement in the wake of the advertising scandal.
Hollywood has always been close to the designer’s heart, so it was pure kismet that Donatella showed her latest collection in Los Angeles three days before the Oscars.
In an age of clickbait fashion, it was acts of reduction that, paradoxically, stood out most, reports Angelo Flaccavento.