NEW YORK, United States — When Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters called upon the services of singer and David Lynch muse Julee Cruise to perform at their Spring 2017 runway show, they were thinking not about her theme song for the cult television show "Twin Peaks," which is set for a reboot in 2017. "We were talking about early rock-and-roll, early forties and fifties. About a person who is untouchable," Peters said backstage. "Apparently, that's very 'Twin Peaks,' too."

Since their 2008 debut, Gabier and Peters have established an aesthetic language that deals in ladylike romanticism — floral lace appliques, proper blouses — but also in schoolgirl nostalgia that surfaces in their ribbed knitwear and penchant for kicky, squared-off booties.

Sometimes, the clothes can feel too vintage and they need to push themselves a little further when conceiving silhouettes. But their fabric choices — an acid-coloured techy silk for a slip dress, engineered khaki seersucker seamed up into a gathered-sleeve gown — feel modern. The collection's freshest proposal was the long skirt suits. It's an idea that communicates the quiet power of the woman Gabier and Peters have in mind.