The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
LONDON, United Kingdom — Patrick Grant's show for E. Tautz posed one burning question: what about this particular collection made the designer feel it would benefit from runway exposure? It would have been so much better for the silver-tongued Grant to talk through the clothes in a presentation, clarifying their unassuming subtleties, couching limitations as quiet strengths, rather than marching them context-less down a catwalk. That's not strictly accurate: there were notes that spoke of Peter Mitchell's photographs of scarecrows, which served a somewhat misleading purpose in whetting a pre-show appetite for shambolically charming experiments in dress.
True, Grant’s boxy flannels and tweeds, baggy pleated pants and nubbly knits had a worn edge, but hardly scarecrow-old. Instead, they were more like the earth-toned casualwear Dad would choose for a weekend out of town. And maybe he’d listen to Phil Collins on the drive, because that was the soundtrack on Saturday morning.
Tim Blanks and Imran Amed discuss the highlights of the Autumn/Winter 2023 collections, including Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry, a transitional show at Gucci and Balenciaga’s first brand statement in the wake of the advertising scandal.
Hollywood has always been close to the designer’s heart, so it was pure kismet that Donatella showed her latest collection in Los Angeles three days before the Oscars.
In an age of clickbait fashion, it was acts of reduction that, paradoxically, stood out most, reports Angelo Flaccavento.