The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — Even rebels grow up. It's all fine, as long as they don't sell out. Etro was founded in 1968, at the peak of the counterculture movement which loomed large even in Italy. This means the brand will turn 50 by the time the collection shown today will hit the shops. "We thought it was the right moment to explore our core values: color and paisley in particular," said Veronica Etro. For the first time she worked with her brother Kean, who's responsible for the company's menswear, on a co-ed show.
The stress on heritage and the new format worked well: the collection felt cohesive and consistent, true to Etro's bourgeois bohème identity without coming across as obtuse. The Etros translated paisley — maybe a bit predictably — into an Indian theme, but then added some twist and some charming Romeo Gigli references. The show was in fact a journey: from the serene lightness of white to the energetic frenzy of psychedelic colour, and from simplicity to overt decoration — another Etro signature. The overall effect was charming and decidedly decadent, in a nice way. The best looks, however, were the purer ones, and, for women, the slightly masculine ones. Lightness: another aspect of the Etro DNA worth exploring. After all, 1968 was all about getting rid of old schemes.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.