default-output-block.skip-main
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

Giambattista Valli's Alternate Realities

Resisting the gritty realism elsewhere in Paris, Giambattista Valli was at his most modern and sharp.
Giambattista Valli Autumn/Winter 2016 | Source: InDigital.tv
By
  • Angelo Flaccavento

PARIS, France — These days, everybody wants to do a Vetements: all of a sudden, the gritty harshness of the underground has turned into the inspiration of choice. They call it realism, but in fact it's just another mise-en-scene. Fashion as catwalk fantasy and true reality are at odds by definition. This said, it is quite difficult to resist the urge to turn into the nth angel of the avant-garde. That's what the air du temps seems to be asking for. But it's all a matter of keeping your integrity.

Giambattista Valli knows how. Of late he has been toning down the ladylike splendour of his ready-to-wear collections in favour of concise modernism with a jolie madame after-taste. Today's show was another step in this direction.

"This is reality as I see it: my own reality," Valli conceded backstage, pointing at the precise dresses layered with knitted bustiers, at the short coats with disturbance jacquard patterns, at the duffel coats closed with multiple straps. The motif carried into the shoes, a slightly fetishistic hybrid of pump and boot.

This was certainly Valli at his most modern and sharp, with an unprecedented stress on outerwear. It made for an interesting move forward. At the core, however, Valli kept the focus on his very own pièce de résistance: the dress, mixing floaty chiffons with the season's precision. They worked well, because they felt fresh and uncontrived. This is realism, too: the realism of sticking to his core business while evolving slowly but steadily.

© 2021 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
Voices2021
© 2021 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions and Privacy policy.
Voices2021