The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — A designer who has lightened up a lot of late is Haider Ackermann. The man he has in mind is still a dishevelled, wonderfully decadent, self-centred contemporary dandy — you imagine the Ackermanm hero meandering inside a brutalized lavish mansion, or into the courtyard of the Musee Galliera, which so magically framed the show yesterday. Yet, the stiff brocades, the architectural constructions and lustrous colours so typically Ackermann have been replaced by ease, fluidity and, dare we say, even a certain cheerfulness. The collection struck a chord with a bright dash of pink and mint green and with a general air of poetic abandon. tailoring looked fluid, nonchalant and sophisticated, in a poet maudit kind of way, and it was a blast.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.